ORANGE HIBISCUS

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MY ORANGE BEAUTY / KOMOLA SUNDORI

Flowers are loved by everyone. I try to choose types of flowers that not only enhance beauty but also provide medicinal benefits without any negative effects. Now, I want to discuss with you guys about the HIBISCUS flower. It wasn’t new when I bought it, but it was new to me because of its amazing orange colour.

The thing I realised

After a week of purchasing the orange hibiscus was its large size and bright colour. After bringing it home, I avoided disturbing it to prevent stress. I placed it on my southeast-facing balcony because I knew it needed sunlight. In the first week, I didn’t notice any changes, but a week later, I observed that its flowers were smaller in size, even though the plant was healthy with glossy green leaves. It seemed well-nourished, so I refrained from adding more nutrients.

Hibiscus needs sunlight,

so I kept it in a sunny spot but not in direct sunlight. However, I noticed that the top corners of all the flower petals were lightly burned. Therefore, I placed the plant in a location that received half-shade and half-light, resulting in the flowers starting to grow smaller.

Eventually, It stopped flowering,

Despite the plant’s healthy growth. Meanwhile, other hibiscus plants with the same genes continued to bloom. I began to investigate the reason for the lack of flowering. Normally, blooming plants do not stop flowering without cause.

Initially, I let the plant rest,

As sometimes plants need a break. After a few days of rest, they usually start flowering again. However, even after a few months, it still didn’t bloom.

Sunlight:

I checked daily to ensure it received morning sunlight but not direct midday sunlight. This plant needs sufficient sunlight energy to flower. Without adequate sunlight, hibiscus may not bloom. Despite receiving proper sunlight, my orange hibiscus did not bloom, leading me to realise sunlight wasn’t the issue.

Soil Check:

Next, I examined the soil by digging and added vermicompost to improve its softness and nutrient content. I ensured there were no algae attacks and that the soil was well-drained with a good water absorption system, eliminating soil as a potential issue.

Watering:

I watered my plants systematically, but I was especially cautious with my hibiscus. Over-watering causes flower buds to drop and leaves to turn yellow, potentially leading to root rot from algae attacks. Conversely, under-watering can lead to poor plant health. Therefore, I maintained a normal watering schedule for my plant.

Pest Attack:

Insect diseases like aphids and mealybugs are common, so I checked under each leaf but found no small black aphids. Aphids are often visible when plants are weak or after spraying with forceful water. Mealybugs are typically found in buds as they begin to bloom. Fortunately, my hibiscus plant remained fresh and dense with green leaves, indicating no fungal or root diseases. As a precaution, I sprayed neem oil three to four times monthly and added cinnamon powder and a bit of Neem oil to the soil mix. If buds fail to bloom, checking for insects inside is advisable.

Root Bound:

I then examined whether the roots were bound. If the pot is too small or the roots grow excessively, the plant may become stressed and fail to flower. In such cases, I pruned the roots and replanted the hibiscus in a 10 to 14-inch pot, but my plant showed no signs of being root-bound.

After exhausting all these steps,

I had to devise a trickier idea. To encourage flowering, I decided to prune the plant more assertively this time. I pruned it differently, with firm but gentle cuts. Hard pruning is recommended only in February; in other months, softer pruning suffices. Pruning stimulates growth hormones at the cut site, encouraging new branch growth.

Fertiliser:

PRUNING AND FERTILISED

After pruning, I fertilised the plant with mustard cake fertiliser mixed with water and sprayed it. When there was still no sign of flowers, I applied a heavy fertiliser mix of Epsom salt and a pinch of salt in a litre of water. Banana peel water, rich in nutrients, was also applied. This combination successfully prompted the plant to bloom again within ten days. To ensure continued flowering, I reapplied the onion peel-quickened fertiliser.

FINAL RESULT

After two to three months of dedicated effort and persistence, the plant finally began to bloom again. I meticulously examined every stage of the solution process to identify the problem, and eventually, I succeeded. The feeling of achievement was indescribable; I simply felt elated.